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When compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. But, situated prominently among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has made the family utterly shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” says the family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary triumph.